“As the sun sets and frogs chirp just outside the screened-in cottage of tables, vineyard owner Dudley Patteson’s eyes sparkle behind tortoiseshell glasses. The former Washington, DC, banker and his wife Peggy also own Irvington’s acclaimed Hope and Glory Inn, a converted 1889 schoolhouse with a … bar named Detention. Patteson affably pulls up a chair and happily shares the vineyard and region ethos. “Oysters and wine both have a sense of place,” he says. “Here you get both grown together; that’s unique in the world.”

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